Whenever I wear a protective style–like my current box braids–the first question that pops into
my head after about the third or fourth week of wearing them is, “what causes product
buildup and how do I get rid of it as soon as possible?” This is the inevitable downside of having
hair, period. The gunky stuff that gets stuck under your fingernails when you go in for an itch
(gross, I know) will happen at one point or another.
The obvious culprit behind this unfortunate reoccurrence is that we’re going in our products,
layering way too much and forgetting that it piles up and hardens over time. And while a scalp
rinse and scrubcan feel like a godsend (here’s my current fave), I’d rather prevent the problem
altogether than address it later through an exhausting amount of trial-and-error. As with most of
my beauty conundrums, I saved myself a Google search and instead consulted with professionals
who actually know what they’re talking about.
As it turns out, there are three very specific–and in my opinion, unexpected–things we continue
to overlook when it comes to product buildup.
The Clarifying Shampoo Scam
Okay, so this one hurt to read. As someone who takes multiple hot yoga classes a week and
almost always has her hair in a protective style, clarifying formulas have been a consistent part
of my routine. But according to Dr. Jill Fichtel, founder of Nashville’s Transformative
Dermatology and Dr. Matthew J Zirwas, clarifying shampoos are mostly a marketing claim
designed to get you to buy an extra bottle of shampoo. One word: WOMP.
“Even if they do have cleaning agents that are stronger than regular shampoo, the risk
of irritating your scalp would outweigh the benefits,” they said. “If you really just can’t live
without clarifying shampoo, try to use it to wash the hair that isn’t close to your scalp so that you
can mostly avoid getting the shampoo on your scalp.” Phew, so I don’t have to go cold turkey.
Skipping the Serum Step
On the other hand, another add-on product does the scalp plenty of good. According to Jennifer
Yepez, Kérastase Consulting Hair Stylist, a serum, like the Kérastase Résistance Serum
Extentioniste, promotes a healthy and balanced growth environment for hair. It’s especially
effective when combined with an exfoliant and will curb or completely prevent icky buildup over
“I love Kérastase Gommage Chronologiste as a refresher. Not only does it really clean your
scalp, but it’s also incredibly luxurious with its gold color and amazing smell. I recommend
using it before every shampoo,” she said.
You’re Not Rinsing Enough
Yepez also makes another important point: when we don’t wash our skin every day, the buildup
is bound to pop up. Think of it as you would your skincare regimen. When you don’t wash your
face every day, the dead skin cells pile up and breakouts soon follow. While she doesn’t
recommend washing every day, it’s still important to cleanse consistently and not let too many
days go in between washes.
At the same time, if you’re not washing every day, it’s imperative that you pay closer attention to
other parts of your cleansing routine. Dr. Fichtel and Dr. Zirwas note that the more buildup, the
more “rinse, lather, repeat” cycles you’ll need to enforce. “If you don’t wash your hair every day
because you don’t want to strip out the natural oils (rather than not washing it just to save time),
you can prevent buildup by simply rinsing your hair well with water in the shower,” they said.
“Without the shampoo to dissolve it, most of the natural oil will stay on your scalp and hair,
BUT most of the products you’ve used are water soluble (unlike the natural oils) and will be
rinsed off by plain water.”
Alternatively, if you find that plain water doesn’t get the job done, you can cut the water with
apple cider vinegar or lemon juice too. Mix either in a 1-to-1 ratio with water and use it as a rinse
in the shower. “The slight acidity of these two products makes them work better at dissolving
residue than water alone,” says Fichtel and Ziwas.
To be honest, I’m still sad about the clarifying shampoo myth, but at least I can hold onto my
serums and bi-weekly cleansing schedule.
By Nikki Brown